This is a longer version of an article also published by the Financial Times. See also the accompanying tasting notes.
In the 1990s Jean-François Julien was a carpenter who knew nothing about wine but used to mend furniture for the aristocratic owner of Château Canon La Gaffelière, Graf Stephan von Neipperg. Today his own small wine property in St-Émilion enjoys exactly the same status as the count's did then. Château La Fleur Morange was promoted to Grand Cru Classé in 2012.
There is nothing of the well-tailored suaveness of the moustachioed count about Julien. With his ruddy face and gruff, ready laugh, he still looks like a carpenter or rugbyman (he sponsors the Libourne rugby team), but he has certainly transformed his practical qualities into gold.http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/la-fleur-morange-the-carpenters-wine